Substrate in coloring: a necessity or a trend procedure
Quite often, once in the hairdresser’s chair, it is difficult to figure out what exactly the master offers. In order not to fall into the mud face, many women agree to procedures, names that do not say anything at all. And then the surprise: where did such a big bill come from, if they just dyed their hair …
In order not to overpay and clearly understand what is at stake, we suggest that you deal with such a procedure as a substrate. Why is it needed, is it worth giving up and when.
What is a substrate in coloring?
Hairdressers have many professional terms that clients do not need to know about, but the names of procedures such as underlay are worth remembering. Sometimes they can offer it, and you refuse because of ignorance. The result is a quickly washed off shade and dissatisfaction due to wasted money and time.
Substrate in hair coloring – This is a preliminary toning of the hair. For this, a special composition is prepared using a low percentage oxidizer, mixton and shampoo.
Why is it needed?
The substrate is usually needed before darkening the blond. When dyeing dark hair, other procedures are performed, such as prepigmentation. This is a preliminary pigmentation that creates the basis for staining. For example, if you want to get a juicy and persistent red or red color, it is better to do prepigmentation. And if you have to dye your hair of a medium blond shade to dark blond, prepigmentation is not needed.
The substrate in hair coloring is a kind of magic wand that helps the selected shade to linger on the hair. The fact is that very blond hair does not retain artificial color well. There is simply nothing for the pigment to cling to, since the base is extremely clarified and porous in most cases.
By the way, it is precisely the omission of such a procedure as a substrate before darkening the blond that causes the selected shade to be washed off very quickly.
When Underlayment Is Necessary
A substrate before dyeing hair in a darker shade is not always needed. The procedure is mandatory for those women who have almost colorless hair, that is, they did full or partial lightening with various techniques – highlighting, shatush, balayage, airtouch.
If the hair is blond, but the desired shade was achieved without a powder lightening procedure, that is, only a dye and a high percentage of an oxidant were used, the likelihood that a dark shade will hold is higher.
The structure of the hair when dyed with paint without prior clarification does not suffer much. They retain elasticity and resilience. When lightening with powder, even with the use of special additives (for example, olaplex), the hair becomes more porous and brittle, it is more difficult for it to retain artificial pigment.
An example of a base before darkening the blonde to a warm caramel shade: 9/32 (estelle) + yellow mixton + 3% oxidizer + 5 g of shampoo.
The composition is applied in the sink for 15 minutes. This is followed by drying with warm air and subsequent staining of the roots and length.
The color substrate during dyeing, namely its formula, is formed individually for each client. There is no universal formula. It is important to consider the initial base and the result to be achieved.
What will happen if you do not make a substrate?
Underlayment before hair coloring is optional. The procedure is advisory. Experienced masters, as a rule, convince clients that this is necessary, since the color will quickly wash off and they will remain dissatisfied with the work of the master (although this will not be his fault).
It’s not uncommon for beginners to the profession to skip underlay in an effort to get the job done faster, or to entice the client to get back in for a re-toning sooner. This is a failed strategy, since in most cases the client does not return to the specialist, after which the shade washed off faster.
On a note!
Substrate for painting – this is also a special thermal paper, which is used to separate the strands. This eliminates the possibility of staining when staining and raises the temperature so that the clarification is maximum.
Some masters use a substrate for a laminate for hair coloring instead of professional thermal paper. The main thing is to choose the thinnest (1-2 mm). This material is very cheap and reusable. After dyeing, it is enough to wash the tapes in the washing machine. Another plus is the ability to cut strips of the desired length and width.